Heading Northbound

Proof...

2008-10-04T09:03:00.000-07:00

Along this journey I have have taken 5,412 photographs and kept a daily written journal, however, right now there are no words necessary ... just look at the pictures.

Photos: Climbing Katahdin; me on the summit of Katahdin and at the end of the AT; Jogle; both of us; safely at the bottom with mom and dad

The End

2008-10-04T06:01:00.000-07:00

I started this trail in the rain and I finished it in sleet and hail. Two days ago on October 2nd, Jogle and I made it up to the summit of Mt. Katahdin. The 5.2 mile, 4100+ foot climb was tough with a couple of miles of rock scrambles. We started in the rain and less than a quarter of a mile from the top freezing rain, sleet and hail started. It seems this trail just wasn't going to let us finish easily. We made it just the same ... and safely. Luckily for us mom and dad were waiting at the bottom with warm coffee and a car to get us to town and into hot showers.

It still just feels like I'm on a day off. Our bodies feel broken and Jogle is starting the process of trying to put back some of the 30 pounds he lost along the way. We came over to the Maine coast for a day and then we're off to Niagara Falls for a few days of rest before Jogle heads back to England.

It's been a fabulous adventure ... one that I'll never forget. We're now Appalachian Trail thru-hikers and we're through. It's a great accomplishment for both of us and now we're just looking forward to a little rest and down time before we start the next process of re-entry into that other world from which we all came before we started hiking the AT. Thank you to everyone who has given support, sent messages, and told me to keep going ... I'm not sure I could have made it without all of the support I received from friends, family, and especially from Jogle, my hiking partner I met in the woods along this journey.

Sorry no pictures, but this computer blocks all software except the internet. I'll put up our summit photos as soon as I can.

Maine!

2008-09-23T08:22:00.000-07:00

As I sit here in Monson, Maine, I'm only 109 miles from the base of Mount Katahdin and 114 miles from completing the Appalachian Trail. My body has fallen to bits, my hiking partner's body and pack are falling to bits, but we're still moving. This is the last stop before the end of the trail and we will start what they call the "100-Mile Wilderness" tomorrow. Everyone is tired, excited and still loving the trail, but the overall consensus is that it's time to end this trip, this hike. Who knew I would actually make it this far ... and without blue-blazing (taking shortcuts), yellow-blazing (hitch hiking), or even slack packing (leaving most of your gear at a hostel and taking only day snacks and being picked up to go back to the hostel that night so you don't have to carry a full pack). Jogle and I aren't called "white blaze kissers" for nothing.

The first half of Maine lived up to it's reputation of being the toughest part of the trail. Starting out in the rain was tough, but the skies cleared and blessed us with 6 days of sunshine to get to where we are now ... just that little 114 from the end. It seems that most people hit their lowest point during that stretch - it's the definition of so close, yet so far away. We made it here in what may not feel like one piece, but in one piece nevertheless.

Like I said ... we leave tomorrow to finish this trail. Seven days through the wilderness and then one day to summit (it's a 4100-foot climb to the end). If all goes well, then we will summit Katahdin on October 1st, which happens to be my hiking partner's (Jogle's) birthday - what a present! Wish us luck and I'll put up another post when this trail is finished.

I've been able to post about 30 photos in the 6 posts below!

Maine Pictures

2008-09-23T08:13:00.000-07:00

Jogle fording an easy stream; Moxie Bald Pond; Jogle on Moxie Bald Pond at Sunrise; stream to ford (feet got very wet); unique white blaze on tree

Maine Pics

2008-09-23T08:04:00.002-07:00

Jogle and I at 2000 miles!; finally ... a moose; stream; "Captain" Dave - operator of the ferry across the Kennebec River; Jogle preparing for the ferry crossing

More Maine Pics

2008-09-23T07:54:00.000-07:00

Changing leaves; Snackies & Wildflowers enjoying lunchtime; sunlight and satisfaction at the summit of North Crocker Mountain (town waiting at the bottom of the mountain); Medium Rare, Snackies, Jogle, Rickles, and Snackies' brother (visiting) at the Stratton Motel; sunset view from Avery Peak of Bigelow Mountain Range

Maine...

2008-09-23T07:43:00.000-07:00

View from Spruce Mountain; lots of mud; Eddy Pond; Saddleback Mountain - Katahdin (the trail's end) in the background; view from Saddleback Jr.

More Maine

2008-09-23T07:35:00.000-07:00

Grey Jay; Jogle climbing up Baldpate Mountain; Jogle atop Baldpate Mountain; it's good not to get lost; sad, abandoned, wet socks

Maine Photos

2008-09-23T07:24:00.000-07:00

Welcome to Maine; Mahoosuc Notch (1.1 mile ravene of jumbled boulders the size of cars and small houses) - next 4 photos

Bear Photos (White Mountains, NH)

2008-09-23T07:20:00.001-07:00

White Mountains, NH Photos

2008-09-23T07:14:00.000-07:00

Mountains; Jogle on Webster Cliffs; Sunset at Mount Madison; Mt. Washington summit; view from Carter Ridge

White Mountain Photos

2008-09-11T15:18:00.000-07:00

Jogle on Mt. Lafayette; White Mountains; Presidential Range; Jogle on Webster Cliffs; Thoreau Falls

Only 297.9 to go ...

2008-09-05T13:29:00.000-07:00

We walked (hobbled, limped, staggered) out of the White Mountains today and are taking tomorrow off in Gorham, New Hampshire. Now we're sitting only 16 miles from the Maine border and 297.9 miles from the end of the trail atop Mount Katahdin. The Whites lived up to their reputation for being tough. We had miles of boulders and rock scrambles, but the scenery made all of it definitely worth the haul. The highest point, Mt. Washington, has the worst weather in the U.S. and is known to have some kind of a view from the top only 1 out of every 10 days. For us ... blue skies, only 30 mph winds, and 100-mile visibility from the top. Needless to say, we got lucky. In fact, all of our weather in the Whites was good.

Now, I've seen over 20 black bears along the trail in nearly every state, but have yet been able to get a good picture. Shortly after our decent off of Mount Madison (not a bit I would recommend to anyone who likes their knees and enjoys their sanity), we were taking a break when a black bear came up over a rock less than 30 feet away and walked toward us. I was able to get some good pictures before it occurred to us that the bear was approaching us rather alarmingly. We jumped up and hollered at the beautiful creature and it headed up the ridge in the other direction. We were so excited to get pictures of a bear at last even though the moose continue to elude us.

So we're on the last leg of this journey and still have some big mountains and a lot of water ahead of us in Maine. We're hoping to summit around September 28thish, but we'll just see how things go. Today actually marks 5 months on the trail for me. I'm happy to be out here, but like everyone else, I'm looking forward to finishing the trail. Southbounders we've been seeing at the beginning of their hike towards Georgia say that northbounders have a haunted look on their face. I'm sure we look a bit tired at this point.

Sorry no pictures, but this computer doesn't allow for it ... next time.

New Hampshire ... Wee-Hoo!

2008-08-23T13:00:00.000-07:00

We made it to New Hampshire and are taking a day off in Hanover. Twelve states down ... two to go. I've hiked 1743.3 miles and have 441.9 left on this trail. Needless to say, I'm a bit tired, but crossing the New Hampshire border yesterday has re-energized us all. Massachusetts and Vermont were muddy. That's an understatement - the trail was it's own river and the mud was ankle-deep, which sapped our energy and hurt the spirits a bit, but the sun finally came out and has been drying things up over the last couple of days. Sadly, in the mud we lost a couple more of our comrades who decided to walk off the trail.

The two states left, New Hampshire and Maine, are known to be the toughest yet, but hopefully we'll get some better weather for them. Maine had a record snowfall this past winter, which turns into a record snow melt in the summer. Additionally, New England has had their wettest summer in recorded history, thus the current mud situation. Southbound hikers that we have passed said that streams that we will have to ford (wade through) in Maine are normally about knee-deep, but are currently chest-high due to all the rainfall and snow melt. Oh goodie - this could be interesting. So conditions in the near future may not be ideal, but we'll push forward. At this point we'll crawl to Katahdin if we have to. The sun is shining for now and that's all we need so onward it is!

Pictures, Pictures, Pictures!

2008-08-23T12:54:00.000-07:00

Stratton Pond, VT; sunset from White Rocks Cliffs, VT; trail magic left by a southbounder on Airport Lookout, VT; sunlight celebration at The Inn at Long Trail (Thinker, Jogle & Zen); leaf changing color (uh-oh! Cold weather stay away!)

More Pictures!

2008-08-23T12:47:00.000-07:00

Cloud inversion from atop Race Mtn., MA; ditto; muddy & wet trail in VT; 1600 miles - VT; morning view from Glastenbury Mtn. fire tower, VT

Pictures!

2008-08-23T12:43:00.000-07:00

Lily pads on pond in New Jersey; NJ/NY state line; field in NY; sunrise in CT; falls of Falls Village, CT

1556.6

2008-08-08T11:10:00.000-07:00

I'm in Dalton, Massachusetts taking a zero day tomorrow. We passed the 1500 mile mark a couple of days ago and are still meandering along. New Jersey was beautiful - still a little rocky, but beautiful. I will now defend New Jersey as "The Garden State". New York seemed to pass quickly and had some great views and climbs. Before I knew it we had crossed the line into Connecticut and New England. The short bit of the trail that runs through Connecticut was gorgeous and we stayed in Kent, CT overnight to restock, do a little laundry, and fortunately for us there is a fabulous coffee and chocolate shop in town, mmmm. As I sit now, I'm about 28 miles short of the Vermont border.

It's hard enough to conceptualize the fact that I've walked over 1500 miles through the woods and over the mountains with my world on my back, but it's harder still to believe that I'm only 619.6 miles from the end of the trail. That being said, the biggest mountains are ahead of us. Most people out here are still moving along okay. There have been a couple who have walked off due to Lyme disease or broken bones, but the rest of us are okay. A few bumps, bruises, bug bites (New England has mosquitoes capable of carrying my pack for me!), and new scars, but the rest of us are moving along.

We've been meeting a lot of southbounders, which just adds to the multitude of characters out here. Additionally, I have had the pleasure of meeting numerous people local to the areas and towns where we've been walking who have helped us out along the way or honked their horns and shouted "Good luck!" when we've crossed a road. One could even argue that people, in general, are still good. There are more people out there than I thought who are willing and happy to help out a smelly hiking stranger and refuse anything in return other than my promise to keep heading northbound.

Sorry - again, no pictures. I'm not allowed to plug my camera into the library's computer, but I promise I'll put up a bunch of photos as soon as I can!

Virginia - Check; West Virginia - Check; Maryland - Check; Pennsylvania - Check

2008-07-23T14:11:00.000-07:00

As you can see, I've hiked through and completed Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania. There are less than 900 miles to go. I'm currently in New Jersey or New York depending on the step since we're on the border. Actually, I'm in Unionville, New York staying at the Mayor's house tonight (like most things out here - it's a long story).

Thanks for all the birthday wishes. I did get a fabulous present ... Jogle and I pushed hard so that I got to have a shower on my birthday in a really bad roadside motel. It may have been one of the best showers I've ever had regardless of the ambiance of the accommodations.

I'm happy that it seems the rocks may have come to an end. Pennsylvania is notorious for its rocks. I've been staggering over them for miles and miles and some more miles - dozens of big boulder fields that make you look drunk as you try to keep your balance and then all of those medium and small stabbing rocks that bruise the bottom of your feet. It can be a bit spirit-killing, which is why usually the last bunch walk off the trail there. From here on out most of those of us who are left should make it barring injury or home emergency. I only fell knees first over the rocks once and busted my knee up a bit, but luckily it resulted in just a few scratches. Today I fell again when I slipped on a wet wooden board over some wetlands and fell off. Oops. It is amusing, though, as you feel like an upside down turtle because of the pack and it takes a while to roll over and get up. Still happy and moving forward. It looks like we may make it to the end sometime around September 20th or 25th. Wish us luck!

Sorry no pictures this time, but there are others who want to use the computer and I don't want to monopolize the time. My next zero will be in Kent, CT at the end of the month and I'll try to put up a bunch of pictures then.

A Picture Worth A Thousand Miles

2008-07-05T19:01:00.000-07:00

A thousand miles and I'm still going. I've walked a thousand miles ... it's hard to wrap your head around it. I thought a thousand miles was a lot and then we hit the halfway point today - 1088 miles. It's a little bittersweet in that I am so excited that I'm halfway through the trail, but then you realize that you have to do it all over again one more time. To make our halfway point even better, an anonymous trail angel left a couple of Budweisers on the trail about 3 miles before the halfway point to help us celebrate - thank you to whomever you may be! Spirits are high even though we've still got a long way to go and it's been raining for three days. At least we made it into a hostel for the night and got a hot shower. The crowds continue to thin out here as more people go home. When I started the Approach Trail in Georgia to hike up to Springer Mountain at the beginning, it was estimated that more than 1100 people had started ahead of me. In Harper's Ferry, WV last week at the trail headquarters I was counted as only the 476th hiker to come through ... less than half are left and more continue to walk off. I think that the majority of those of us still on right now will make it barring any accident or emergency - fingers crossed. Aside from loosing my step and taking a nasty fall down some rocks that quickly removed the skin from my left knee, I haven't had any problems other than a blister here or there. My fall was lucky and I walked away only leaving a little skin in Maryland. Like they say ... it's all downhill from here (I wish!).
Pictures: Jogle standing at the 1000 mile mark; another good view; fungus of pretty colors; critter on flowers; Jogle and I at the halfway point!

850.5

2008-06-18T07:44:00.000-07:00

Waynesboro, Virginia, mile 850.5. After a day off here today, I'll head into the Shenandoah National Park. Life is good ... body is tired, but we're moving right along. Virginia has had some of the best spots so far and some of the toughest terrain. When you talk to most former thru-hikers, read the books, and watch any of the documentaries, they all say that Virginia is easy ... hmmm. It has been good, but not easy. In the last 3 days I've climbed 3000+ foot mountains and had a 3000 foot descent - that hurts a bit - I don't care who you are - and the views have been spectacular. Shenandoah should offer some more gentle climbs and descents and give the body some rest. I still feel great though (I'll feel even better after my 3rd shower today!) And for all of you who may have had some concerns about me keeping on weight ... don't worry. As of yesterday I've gained 7 pounds - yup, gained, not lost, so I'm in good shape.

It's hard to believe that I'm only 238 miles from the halfway point. It's also hard to believe that after another 238 miles I still have another 1088 miles to go. One day at a time, one step at a time ... and when I do get frustrated I have to laugh and remember that I'm just walking.

Pictures: lunch; The Guillotine; rattlesnake; breakfast atop Big Rocky Row; one last look after breakfast on Big Rocky Row

Cutest Angel I Ever Saw

2008-06-18T07:32:00.000-07:00

On June 12th we got a real treat. That's the day I was fortunate enough to meet the cutest angel I ever met, John Hasty. He met Samson at a shelter right after we left and offered to make some dinner for the thru-hikers and made an arrangement to meet us up the trail a bit. John pulled out a grill and made us homemade pancakes, grilled sausage, and eggs. Wow! The meal came complete with orange juice. He kept making up the good eats as long as we kept gobbling them down. He was even so gracious to make a little take-out for our friends Mas and Blazing Star who had hiked up the trail a bit earlier than us.

John said his son, Snakebite, had completed a thru-hike northbound last year and that he was just trying to give back to the trail what so many others had done for his son on his trek. Thank you John! You made our day and as you can see ... Mas and Blazing Star were elated to have some non-dehydrated dinner once we caught up to them. Take care!

Water, Please

2008-06-09T15:01:00.000-07:00

Okay, we have gone from a cold snap a couple of weeks ago to one of the worst heat waves in Virginia's recent history. Really Mother Nature .. c'mon, work with us. Lately it seems as though we're melting half of the time and we have to drink our weight in water everyday. They say the temperature should drop down to normal, the 80s, in a couple of days. Here, in Daleville, we ended up taking a zero because it hit 100 degrees today and there was no way we were going to climb the 1400 feet out of town today. When we do see water, we generally jump in and share it with whomever and whatever may be around. As a matter of fact I am typing at breakneck speed so I can run and jump the the motel pool. Pictures: Jogle & I in a stream; Animal; crayfish; fish; self-portrait of facewash after hiking through hot open fields

Thank You Audie

2008-06-09T14:49:00.000-07:00

A few days ago we set out for another day of the trail that included a two and a half-mile uphill climb. Much to our chagrin, we hit the hill at 3:00 in the afternoon in the direct sunlight when it was 96 degrees out. How's that for bad timing? Luckily, we had just received a little trail magic in the form of ice cold watermelon and sodas just before the climb. At the top of the climb was the Audie Murphy memorial marking the place where Audie Murphy's plane crashed in 1971. As beautiful as the memorial was, the nice bench sitting there was much-appreciated and enjoyed by all of us. By the sight of the growing rock cairns, I would say that many a hiker has enjoyed that bench at the end of the tough climb. Audie, thank you for your service to this country and thank you for your beautiful park bench. Pictures: Eastern Continental Divide; trail magic cooler and Jogle; Animal, Donnie & Jogle; bench at memorial; Audie Murphy memorial

Climbing High

2008-06-09T14:32:00.000-07:00

Over the past couple of days we have hiked and climbed in some gorgeous areas of Virginia. They have been tough days in the middle of this heat wave (95+ degrees, a backpack, and a couple thousand feet of climbing can be a little draining), but it has been worth it even though it does not always seem like it is when we're dragging ourselves uphill. Here are a few pictures. The places are truly indescribable and the pictures do not do them justice, but I'll try to describe them to you all once I find the words. Pictures: me atop McAfee Knob, ditto, Jogle & I on Dragon's Tooth, steep section of trail (drop off) trying to get down from Dragon's tooth, roots/rocks at Dragon's Tooth

A Green Tunnel No More

2008-06-03T07:34:00.000-07:00

The AT is also sometimes referred to as The Green Tunnel because there are viewpoints, but not a lot of wide open spaces along the trail. Most of the time we are just hiking through the forests, which can be frustrating and monotonous for some. However, over the last couple of weeks, the wildflowers have popped and the trail is now alive with a myriad of colors and fragrances. I only wish the computer had a scratch 'n' sniff program so everyone could get the full effect of these flowers. Here are just a few pictures: Me on the trail surrounded by a rhododendron thicket; azaleas; mountain laurel; trail blaze by wildflowers; yellow iris

Critters

2008-06-02T14:42:00.000-07:00

There have been lots of critters along the way: Wild ponies in the Grayson Highlands; catepillar; Eastern ribbon snake; deer; newt

624!

2008-06-02T14:15:00.000-07:00

Well, I've hiked over hills and mountains and through the woods for 624 miles. It's hard to believe ... especially since the average American walks approximately one mile per week. I'm in Pearisburg, Virginia taking a day off. I'm still feeling great. I've been hiking with the same loose group since Damascus and we've seen some wonderful things ... various critters, wild ponies, and a day of torrential rain. We've jumped in and rinsed off in streams and basked in the sun when it returned. Within one week I will have completed 1/3 of the AT and be moving into central Virginia. I still love hiking the AT even though there are a lot who have been walking off lately for various reasons. The crowds are definitely going to start thinning soon. I love the fact that everyday is different since my portable home moves further along the trail each day and that there is always something new just around the corner. I love the vast majority of the people on the trail out here with me. They're some of the best men and women I've ever met. I also enjoy the experience of not knowing what day of the week or month it is. In the "other" world everything is on such a strict schedule - the opposite is definitely an experience. Here are a few more pictures: Jogle after our waterlogged day; me atop Buzzard's Rock; Jogle with a well-deserved beer after drying out; Campfire on the trail in the Greyson Highlands; Jogle, Mas, Blazing Star and Samson

Bad Weather Pictures (the last 2 weeks)

2008-05-21T09:45:00.000-07:00

Pictures: A little comic relief; fog & rain; Coffee & cupcake trail magic up on Bald Mtn.; View at the top of Hump Mtn. (scenic!); Trail going up Iron Mtn.

More Pictures

2008-05-21T09:39:00.000-07:00

Pictures: Rabbit at Rocky Top, TN in the Smokies; Smokies view; Deer in Smokies; Wildflowers; Self-portrait on top of the world at Max Patch

Smokie Mountain Pictures

2008-05-21T09:12:00.001-07:00

Pictures: View from Clingmans Dome, 6643ft. (Happy Birthday Dad!); Privy at Mt. Collins Shelter; Newfound Gap; Charlie's Bunion; Jefe, me and Gnormal atop Charlie's Bunion

Goodbye North Carolina, Adios Tennessee ... Hello Virginia

2008-05-21T08:42:00.000-07:00

Well, I crossed the Virginia state line yesterday and walked into Damascus, VA in time for lunch. I'm so happy to have left two more states behind, but I'll be in Virginia a while. It stretches about 550 miles or approximately one-fourth of the entire trail. I walked in with Jogle, Vegas, Campfire, and Samson. We made an immediate stop at Subway for as much food as we could handle and then walked next door to a coffee shop for a nice big mocha. Ahhh ... real coffee. After realizing that I had hiked 300 miles in 16 days without a day off I decided it was definitely time for a zero day (as in zero miles hiked for the day). No wonder I was a little weary. I woke up this morning feeling truly relaxed physically for the first time in days. I've been feeling great, but waking up to the idea of not having to really do anything is nice. Everybody needs a day off and I probably should have taken one a while ago, but now is as good a time as ever. I can finally put some pictures up so enjoy and I'll talk to everyone soon! Pictures: Me and Jogle at the VA state line; Jogle, me and Vegas upon arriving in Damascus, VA; Samsom and Campfire at the Hiker's Inn hostel in Damascus

A Little Magic Just in Time

2008-05-13T14:51:00.000-07:00

For those of you who don't know, we have a couple of things out here called "trail magic" and "trail angels". At various random spots you may run into a trail angel or angels sitting at a roadside or a gap that have food and drink (trail magic) for the hikers as they come by. Some of them might be out there for a day and some of them might camp out a week or a month to provide much needed goodies for the hikers.

I hiked out of Hot Springs on Saturday morning (May 10th) and the weather was overcast and cool - perfect. I saw a couple of cute snakes and began to run into people that had been a week ahead of me. The next day I woke up to 37 degrees and 30-40 mph winds (outlook did not look good). From there it got worse. There were strong winds, hail pelting me between the eyes, and rain. I made it to another shelter by 3:00 and would normally have hiked on, but instead I threw down my bag, turned around to the trail and told it that I was not going to take another [insert expletive] step. I figured that tomorrow was another day and the hiking could wait until then. After that I called mom and wished her a Happy Mother's Day ... it's always good to hear mom's voice.

Mother Nature did not exactly cooperate the next day. The winds increased, but at least there was not any hail or rain, but it was still colder. And then it happened ... there on the trail was a storage container full of cookies, cupcakes, and hot coffee with just a note instructing the hikers to warm up and eat some goodies. I'm truly not sure if I've ever been so happy in my whole life. Just as things were going downhill, an anonymous angel provided cupcakes and coffee - really good coffee, too. I helped myself, wrote a thank you note, and then had renewed energy with the help of the caffeine and sugar to push forward up the damned hill. I made it to the top of Bald Mountain where I was blown off the trail a couple of times by the big winds and made it to the nearby shelter. There I learned that the night before another hiker measured the wind speed to be 50 mph and a temperature of 19 degrees. Still hyped up on my trail magic, myself and three others decided to push on to lower elevation so as not to freeze in misery. We went another 6 miles and found a great meadow by Spivey Gap (1700 feet lower)and threw up a couple of tents. In the end, I hiked 25 miles that day, my longest so far. I was tired and my knees were a little sore, but I felt good. I made it in here to Erwin, Tennessee today after 11 miles of crawling over trees that were blown over in the storms during the previous two days. Only a little blood was dropped in the process. I'm showered again and have some clean clothes for at least 12 hours and then I'll be back out there - smelling up the trail.

Again, I'm unable to post pictures, but don't worry - I'll get some on at some point.

Into the Smokies and Out

2008-05-09T14:37:00.000-07:00

Well, myself and others hiked through North Carolina where we saw our first black bear, a very young adult - a little guy. I was also introduced to ramps, wild onions that have a bit of a garlicy taste - yumm. I also learned about may apples and wintergreen. The weather continued to be a bit chilly for me, but I'm used to it now ... 50 degrees is tank top and shorts weather. We made it to Fontana Dam, NC (the dam where "The Fugitive" was filmed), which marks the southern boundary for the Smokey Mountain National Park. After taking a day off due to bad weather, we headed out and made it about 2 miles until my hiking partner twisted his knee. It was back to Fontana for us. A week later his knee was feeling better, but he and another former thru-hiker decided they wanted to stay there another week to catch a bluegrass festival. For me, it was time to go, so I headed out into the Smokies on my own on May 4th for the 70 mile trek through the park. Luckily, the Smokies were not too smokey and I had fabulous weather for the 4 days it took me to cross them. I also caught up with lots of other AT hikers that I know (I know just about everybody 2 weeks ahead of me and 1 week behind me). No one is ever really alone on the trail. Gnormal, Jefe, and I finished up the Smokies together. If you've never seen them, then you have to go. I saw lots of wildlife (rabbits, deer, birds, etc.), but no bears. I never really knew which state I was in as the trail follows the Tennessee/North Carolina border. I stood on the peak of Rocky Top, Tennessee (as in the song). I also hit the highest point of the Smokies and the entire trail, Clingman's Dome, on Dad's birthday (May 5th). I even got a birthday call through to him from the tower - at 6500 feet you would hope to get some kind of service! The wildflowers are carpeting the ground in every color. I wish everyone could see it. After four days (23mi, 14mi, 20mi, and 18mi - I don't care who you are - that's good) I left the Smokies behind. I will definitely return to them.

A day after exiting the Smokies I got to stand on top of the world. I climbed to the top of Max Patch, NC. At 4629 ft it's not the highest point I'll hit, but it's like standing on top of the world. It's a large bald on top of the mountain - think "The Sound of Music" intro scene. I sat there for an hour with a grin on my face ear-to-ear. Due to the weather, I couldn't cowboy camp on top so I headed on. I made it into Hot Springs, NC where I am now in a day and a half. I've showered and feel almost human again. I'd write more, but the outfitter is closing and I've got to wrap it up - the library in town is already closed. I'm out of here in the morning and might be back in touch in 4 or 5 days. Take care everyone. Sorry I haven't had cell service in a couple of weeks and have no access to a ground phone here. I'll call people the first chance I get.

Again, Happy Birthday Dad! I love you.

Sorry no pictures are accompanying this post, but the computer I'm on is apparently a throwing a bit of a tantrum. Next chance I have I'll post a bunch of photos.

Georgia ... No Longer On My Mind

2008-04-19T11:43:00.000-07:00

Ahhh, North Carolina. I finally left Cloud 9 (also known as The Vortex) on Wednesday morning and hit the North Carolina state line that day. I do not miss Georgia, as it is all up, down, up, down, up ... you get the idea. One state down, 13 more to go. My knee is better and I am happy to have lost my hiker's hobble for at least the time being.

While still at Cloud 9 on Tuesday I met my first southbounder. Skipper left from Maine in September and should be finishing his thru-hike at Springer about now. I hiked through a little rain this morning and have landed in Franklin, NC along with a bunch of other hikers. I think we all made our hikes to Rock Gap in record speed at the thought of real showers, coffee, and food (not dehydrated) cooked by someone else. My seemingly good tan washed off in the shower again and I think I lost at least a pound of dirt and grease in the process. Who knew I wasn't wearing black nail polish on my toes?

Life is wonderful and getting better every day. I still can't imagine being anywhere else right now. I'm off for now ... I've got to go and let the McDonald's, which I normally hate, but it was oh-so-good at the moment, digest and rest my stomach so I can fill it again soon. Picture: Me at the state line. Take care everyone and thanks for all the sweet notes and well-wishes!

Hiking Onward

2008-04-14T19:26:00.000-07:00

It's Monday night and I'll be finally getting back on the trail tomorrow with a few new hiking partners. My foot is much better and the weather is improving as well - there was snow just up the mountian from us this morning, a little chilly for this Florida girl. In the mean time, I've been here at Cloud 9 the whole time meeting new characters and sitting in the hot tub. I know it's been rough, but it has been a little better than the cubicle. I've eaten my weight in junk food for 3 days so I'm all fueled up to start tomorrow. Wish us luck!

A Slow Down

2008-04-12T14:40:00.000-07:00

I'm 65 miles into the trail and have developed what is well-known as a hiker's hobble. Earlier this week I noticed that the big muscle behind my right knee was tighter than usual. Despite my best efforts to take care of myself, my right leg crumpled on the descent into Tesnatee Gap. Involuntary tears ran down my face and I limped down to the bottom of the hill, sat down, sent my hiking friend on, and did what any other smart hiker would do at a low point, I called mom. Though I only use my cell phone for convenience when I'm in town, I was happy to find service and got a good talk and a lift from mom.

I drudged on for another 4 miles to camp, ate dinner and crashed. Without any swelling I slowly made my way another 26 miles over the next two days to reach another hot shower at the Cloud 9 hostel in Hiawassee, Georgia complete with hot tub for its medicinal properties, of course. I arrived on Friday, yesterday, and am still here. Now my right leg is fine, but a tendon in my right foot is swollen and hurting due to my limp from the previous couple of days. A former thru-hiker here has refused my leaving until I’m a little better. There are about 5 of us still here and limping around for one reason or another – blisters, swollen knees, etc. All of us are dutifully popping ibuprofen and alternating our cold and warm compresses as our bodies adjust to the harsh impact of hiking up and down mountains with 20+ pounds on our backs. The pains should become less as my hiking legs come in - hopefully sooner rather than later. I plan on leaving tomorrow, but I have been told that if my foot is not healed up enough, then I will be strapped to a chair with duct tape to prevent my leaving. We’ll see.

I continue to meet a myriad of characters who instantly become my new friends along the trail. Jack from New Hampshire is on the trail hiking to his sister’s August wedding at home in New Hampshire and will continue on to Maine after the festivities; Mave continues slowly on the ankle she broke just 8 weeks before she started that is still in a brace with the help of Sam; and I hear Streak is still stuck camping out at Neels Gap with a hip injury. He’s been there a week and hopefully will be back on the trail soon. I have also become acquainted with the sleeping (snoring) habits of another 14 of my companions. Additionally, I’ve had the pleasure of getting to know a few mice and a couple of wild pigs in camps before arriving at Cloud 9.

If I get out of here tomorrow, then I may hit North Carolina by mid-week. It’ll be my first of thirteen state lines that I’ll cross on my way to Maine. Once in North Carolina I’ll hit the Great Smokey Mountains. Until then, I’ll eat my ibuprofen and baby my foot. Thank you again, mom.

A Few Pictures

2008-04-12T11:28:00.000-07:00

Here are a couple of pictures of my short trip so far ... me at the summit of Springer Mountain - the beginning of the AT, me in the Georgia mountains

The First 40

2008-04-08T11:09:00.000-07:00

Well, despite being swarmed night before last by Army Rangers as part of their mountain training, which is located in this area (sleeping hikers in camp are good guinea pigs for them to test their creeping up on the unsuspecting skills). Lucky us. Then the two bears in camp last night kept us on our toes a little, but no problems - just not much sleep. Like the post title says, I've made it the first 40 miles. I'm in Neels Gap, Georgia, 30 miles into the trail (the approach trail to start the AT was 8.8 miles). I'm staying here in a hostel tonight and have been given a washer and dryer, a scolding hot shower, unlimited hot coffee, and a local restaurant owner is bringing us a big pasta dinner with all the trimmings. All this for $15 - maybe heaven does exist. If not, I'm damned close right now.

So my first day was tough. The approach trail to get to the summit of Springer Mountain and the official start of the AT was just as unfun as they say. It was chilly and raining when I said "Adios" to mom and dad and hauled my ass and my pack up the 8.8 mile slip-n-slide Approach Trail. It was truly up, up and up some more. I've already met some great people and have been mainly hiking with another girl hiking solo that I met my first night on the trail. I've also been given a trail name - Cruise Control - Cruise for short. Apparently it is believed that I am one of the fastest girls on the trail in terms of speed. I'm sure I'll have plenty of slow days, but I guess Cruise it is. Better to be given a trail name for something believed positive rather than for one of your stupid moments no one will let you forget. Seeing as how I'm an admitted jackass, I'm sure I'll have plenty of "bright" moments along the way.

I'm sore, have a couple of blisters on my feet, just lost my tan in the shower, am always hungry, and I couldn't be happier. There are plenty of others already talking about walking off the trail. For me, I haven't thought about stopping at all because I've simplified my days ... I wake up freezing, warm up a bit, eat breakfast and start thinking about dinner, and then I walk to dinner, eat dinner, ahhh, and go to sleep, wake up and do it again. It's just that easy - I just get up and walk to dinner every day and enjoy the view and accomplishment along the way. It's something to remember when I return to the world from where I came.

Time To Go

2008-04-03T23:38:00.000-07:00

If ever there was a situation that would make one stop and think "I really would like to leave civilization for a while and wander off into the woods for a few months," it would be a trip to Wal-Mart at 10:00 at night looking for a couple of last minute bungee cords. That was me this evening. I walked into the seemingly wide open garage of fluorescence with its aisles upon aisles of mostly useless "I've just got to have it" things. Some of the people looked like the walking dead under the overwhelming lighting that must have been created just to make us look like zombies (very popular in offices worldwide). Over the speakers, Jimmy Buffet was serenading all of us with a touching story about his love of cheeseburgers and his idea of paradise. All I could think was, "Thank God I'm walking off into the woods day after tomorrow." I did find the bungee cords I needed. Let's face it, when you need a bungee cord at 10:00 at night ... where else can you go? It also served the greater purpose of reaffirming the fact that I can't wait to start walking to Maine.

Mom and Dad are hanging in well. They've gotten a map of the trail and proudly hung it in the kitchen to keep track of me when I call them. They've got a box of resupply food, shoes, and a couple of shirts ready to go when I need it. I can only hope that everyone else is so fortunate to have family and friends like me. I'm 32, quit the job that no longer suited me, put all of my belongings in storage, and moved to my parents home to prepare for my trip and to use as a spring board back into the "civilized" world when I return. A lot of people might have family and friends who may not agree with such decisions, but not me. After concluding that I am not crazy, stupid or flighty, everyone has supported me.

I am aware of a few certainties: I will be cold; I will walk through rain - a lot of rain; I will be hungry; happiness, sadness, fear, and bewilderment will all be experienced; blisters; pain and soreness will be felt every day; and I'll learn even more about myself that I am already aware. I can't wait to get started. I hope to make it to Maine, but really I just want to enjoy my time on the trail. 5 days, 5 weeks, or 5 months - it will benefit me. For the first time in a while, I feel like I'm actually doing what I'm supposed to right now. One mile at a time, one day at a time. I'll make it as far as I'm supposed to.